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 | 2021 Ch. Canon - Saint Emilion 1er GCC | € 117,50 (€ 142,18) |
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71% Merlot en 29% Cabernet Franc. 13,5%. Nicolas Audebert vergelijkt 2021 met 2001. Purper tooit het glas. De neus biedt rijpe maar koele sombere kersjes en zwarte bes over viooltjes en rodekersenbloesem, met een evenredige eiktoets. Het palet is hemels en “aérien” terwijl stralende aciditeit en compact fruit gestuwd worden door droge tannine. Het geheel is verfijnd en de buvabilité groot. De structuur brengt focus en evenwicht aan het fruit en belooft bewaarpotentieel al zal Canon 2021 reeds vrij vroeg onweerstaanbaar zijn. De vele liefhebbers van Canon komen hiermee thuis! Sinds 2014 openbaart Nicolas Audebert de Châteaux van de familie achter Chanel : Rauzan-Ségla en Canon. Hij goot zelfs het sensorieel universum op beide oevers in een opmerkelijk boek: « La recherche de puissance, de matière, d'extraction n'est pas à un cheval de bataille pour nous. Nos vins ne sont pas des vins d'un soir. Ce sont des vins avec lesquels vous vous mariez. » Op de Linkeroever vertolkt Rauzan-Ségla één van de mooiste terroirs van Margaux in zachtheid en verfijning. Op de Rechteroever is Canon een exuberante maar verfijnde gentleman. Canon is “un vignoble sain” of een goed gemeerd schip, op Rauzan Ségla en Berliquet gaan de kleine en grote aanpassingen onverminderd voor. Canon en Rauzan Ségla zijn exquise wijnen en behoren tot de allerbeste van de nouvelle vague en de hedendaagse stijlvereisten: verfijnd, elegant, fris en lichtvoetig. 2021 Canon valt op door een sappige attaque, rijkelijk fruit en een volmaakte finale. IN DE PERS 95 William Kelley - robertparker.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Canon opens in the glass with a pure bouquet of raspberries, cherries and plums mingled with pretty top notes of iris, licorice, mint and sweet spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's fleshy and sensual, with a deep and seamless core of fruit framed by ultra-refined tannins, a bright spine of acidity and a long, mineral finish. With an impressively low finished pH of 3.37, it was taken out of barrel a month earlier than usual and saw no fining—as has been the case since 2010. Drink 2028-2051. In the last few years, this sleeping giant has well and truly reawakened, and the 2021 vintage represents another fine success for Nicolas Audebert and his team. Extensive replanting between 1996 and 2003, overseen by Audebert's predecessor, John Kolasa, saw some 50% of the estate's 22 hectares replaced. The fact that these vines are now arriving at full maturity surely goes some way to accounting for Canon's contemporary renaissance. Now, the team is working on restructuring the rest, combining massal selections and clones. Viticulture is thoughtful, with cover crops across the estate, and the terroir itself is relatively homogeneous: solid limestone covered by some 0.25 to 0.7 meters of clay, with a more or less uniform exposition on Saint-Émilion's plateau. There's also one small parcel in the town itself and another by Berliquet. Today, the vineyard is planted with about 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, and there are no plans to radically alter that. Winemaking privileges finesse over power, though a certain richness and texture can be taken for granted with a site like this, and maturation is in 50% new oak (mostly from Taransaud, Demptos, Sylvain and Quintessence). 93 Neal Martin - vinous.com (Februari 2024) The 2021 Canon has a clean and precise bouquet. Redcurrant, cranberry and wild strawberry scents gradually emerge, perhaps a little more tertiary than previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins - a strict Canon, quite saline with just a hint of licorice coming through toward the finish. Although it does not reach the imperial heights of other vintages in recent years, the 2021 is still a fine effort considering the challengin growing season. Drink 2030-2060. 92-94 Neal Martin – vinous.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Canon was picked September 16 to October 6 and matured in 50% new oak for a planned 16-18 months. Around 70% of the vineyard produced the normal yield, which underwent a 50% deselection, yet it still yielded 40hL/ha because the vines did not suffer stress. After mildew, any bunches that showed damage on the stems were removed. Nicolas Audebert told me that there was no concentration or saignée, just a little chaptalization (around 0,5-1,0%, depending on the thank). This has quite a concentrated bouquet of opulent dark cherries, blueberry, violet and just a hint of camphor. The palate is medium-bodied and pliant, with gentle grip, saturated tannins and a judicious touch of spice toward the compact finish. While recent top-flight vintages may well eclipse this Canon, it still stands as a fine addition to the recent roster. Drink 2030-2060. 97 Antonio Galloni - vinous.com (December 2023) The 2021 Canon shows just how magical this site is. Vertical and explosive in feel, with tons of pure power, it impresses with its intensity, drive and super-classic profile. Bright saline notes and vibrant tannins give the 2021 a feeling of energy that only gains momentum with time in the glass. It's not an easy Canon, like the 2015 or 2018, but it is incredibly expressive. It is the sort of wine that only truly emerges with time in bottle. I would be thrilled to own it. Canon must surely be one of the great realtive values in first-class wine. Wow. Tasted two times. Drink 2031-2061. 95-97 Antonio Galloni – vinous.com (Mei 2022) Dramatic, rich and imposing, the 2021 Canon is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. Sculpted red purplish fruit, rose petal, lavender, sage and crushed rocks all race out of the glass. A heady, vertical wine, Canon is endowed with tremendous concentration and class. The aromatics alone are beguiling, but it is the wine’s balance that impresses most. Taste three times. This is such an elegant and regal wine. Drink 2031-2061. 94-96 William Kelley – robertparker.com (April 2022) A brilliant wine in the making, the 2021 Canon offers up aromas of cherries, wild berries, licorice, sweet soil tones, raw cocoa, Indian spices and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's immensely refined and seamless, with a lively spine of acidity, ripe tannins and a long, penetrating, intensely saline finish. This beautifully balanced Canon is one of the classiest, most complete wines of the Right Bank in this vintage. Tasted four times. 96-97 James Suckling – jamessuckling.com (Mei 2022) A wine full of finesse and class with fantastic length and polish. Medium to full body with ultra-fine tannins that run endlessly down the length of the wine. Blackberry, graphite and spice. Agile and weightless. 96 Jane Anson – janeanson.com (April 2022) Gorgeous bright plum colour with violet reflections. The epitome of careful, precise, well-spliced winemaking. Sibling estate Berliquet has perhaps more immediate charm, because there is more power running through it, but this is just elegance and finesse personified. Red cherry, raspberry, blueberry, blackberry, slate, saffron, oyster shell, they have teased out layers of complexity that were not easy to find in the vintage, and there is length also, with pummice stone salinity scraping across the palate. It's subtle, and it's not at the heights of a 2019 Canon, but this will not be out of place in a vertical of the estate. Tasted twice. 50% new oak, 40hl/h yield, harvest September 16 to October 8. Thomas Duclos consultant. 90-92 Lisa Perrotti-Brown – thewineindependent.com (Mei 2022) The 2021 Canon is a blend of 71% Merlot and 29% Cabernet Franc with yields of 40 hl/ha and aging for 16-18 months in French oak, 50% of it new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it is slightly closed to begin, revealing subdued notes of juicy black plums and boysenberries, plus hints of Morello cherries, cinnamon stick, clove oil, and Sichuan pepper. Medium-bodied, the palate has a solid backbone of fine-grained tannins and bold freshness (pH 3.37) supporting the vibrant black and red fruits, finishing long and minerally. Drink 2027-2039. 17/20 James Lawther – jancisrobinson.com (Mei 2022) 71% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample. Reserved at present. Floral notes as the wine opens. Texturally very elegant, the tannins extremely polished and fine. Compact, concise. Less wow this year but clean and refreshing and enough fruit for ageing. Drink 2028 – 2040. 95-96 lefigaro.fr (December 2023) 98 Terre des Vins (Mei 2022) 95-97 La Revue des Vins de France (Mei 2022) CanonCanon is een Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé die zijn sporen verdiende in een ver verleden. De aankomst in 1996 van de broers Wertheimer werd een kantelmoment. De eigenaars van Chanel pasten Haute Couture toe: vandaag is een typische Canon extreem elegant, fijn en complex. De wijngaard werd gaandeweg uitgebreid van 20,5 tot 34 hectare (31 in productie), na de aankoop van Curé Bon la Madeleine (plateau, argilo-calcaire) en Matras (de zuid-zuidwestelijke helling en pied de côte ten Zuiden). John Kolasa en nu Nicolas Audebert zetten orde op zaken. Twintig jaar “volstond” om Canon er weer helemaal te doen “staan”. Canon is vandaag the talk of town (in Bordeaux en tot ver daarbuiten) zeker sinds de legendarische 2015, 2016 en 2018. Er werd 70% Merlot en 30% Cabernet Franc aangeplant op een densiteit tussen 6.500 en 7.200 wijnstokken per hectare. De gemiddelde leeftijd van de wijngaard was 30 jaar in 2018. De bodem bestaat uit kalk onder een dunne laag klei op het plateau en zandering klei op de helling. AudebertNicolas Audebert is een wijnmaker van formaat en een tovenaar. Hij bouwde zijn carrière uit bij Champagne Krug en Cheval des Andes in Argentinië voordat de gebroeders Wertheimer hem aanstelden als opvolger van John Kolasa sinds 2015 op Château Canon, de Saint Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, en Château Rauzan Ségla, Deuxième Grand Cru Classé Margaux. Zijn “coup d’essai” werd een “coup de maître”: zijn magische Canon 2015 is nu al de legende ingegaan. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||